![]() It is fairly commonly known that Williams released an upgrade kit which uses micro-switches instead of the leaf switches in both the ball trough and the multi-ball trough. Hence, many switches were operating through a contact between a gold-flashed tabĪnd a rivet which, over time, would cause the contact to wear and corrode especially since dissimilar metals were involved in the current transfer through the contacts. When the switches were assembled, theyįailed to ensure that the gold-flashed tabs were facing each other with the rivets to the outside. The contact tabs are riveted to the legs so that one side has a gold-flashed contact and the other side is the back of the rivet. Each leaf switch has two legs with a contact tab at the end of each Leaf switches (originally in their 1970's electro-mechanical pinball machines) which were assembled improperly. The history behind these leaf switches involved Williams using Only replace those but I chose to replace them all to ensure reliability (and proper gameplay).Īnother major category of repairs dealt with the original leaf switches installed in my Black Knight pinball machine. This was one of those repairs that falls into the second category above because I could have determined which coils were bad (not non-functional but weak) and ![]() Even this process was a bit daunting because there were quite a few "hacks" done to this machine and the coil sizes did not match what I had seen on other Black Knight I could increase the lifespan of the game and not have to constantly repair parts that may have worked fine but had issues.Īlthough most of the solenoids were not broken in this machine (the most common problem is that they can warp from overheating and compress the coil sleeve) I decided to replace Now that everything was disassembled I had a much better idea about which parts I needed to not only replace those that were broken or damaged but also replace parts so that ![]() Considering that I got a new set of plastics, all new posts, all new bolts/screws and a few other parts, I only reused the ramps and other related metal playfield parts. Below is a picture of the original playfield parts taken from the upper and lower As playfield parts were removed, they were placed on the bar that we have in the basement. I first began with the playfield(s) and all associated which was actually much easier and quicker than the re-assembly process to my chagrin. Is a transistor switching circuit that adust the amplifier's voltage rails between high current (lower voltage) 4 ohm speaker operation or lower current (higher voltage) 8 ohm speaker Luckily I have the full service manual for that receiver and the damaged circuit is fairly straightforward (it So this gave meĪ good excuse to start tearing everything apart so that I can rebuild it. When I turned the machine on, the receiver did not work and I quickly realized what had occurred. ![]() Noticing it (while soldering up some prototype GI relay circuits). However, this problem was quickly resolved when I mistakenly dropped a blob of hot solder onto the Sony receiver's circuit board without I'll let you know how it works.Considering that the machine had been fully playable during the prototyping stage and that I like to test the machine out with each additional effect, I found that I was playing theīlack Knight more than working on it. Currently monitor 2 is not connected so I will not be able to try this until later. I'm presuming changing it to .hidden = 1 will make the difference that is required. hidden = 0 on the 2-monitor setups I've tried so far. If I go back & forth between DT and FS with 2 monitors will the scores stay where they belong. That is my concern with the Black Knight. The solution was entering the position & size for the DT DMD in the DT table script and entering the position & size of the FS 2 monitor DMD in the FS table script. IOW the DMD stayed wherever it was last moved. So I had to turn on monitor 2 & drag the DMD back to the DT on monitor 1. The problem I had was going back & playing the DT table because the DMD stayed at its position on monitor 2. I've previously done everything (with one exception) that you mentioned on the few 2 monitor setups I've played with.
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